Military Modelling Vol.43 No.12, 2013

 Many methods can be employed to depict peeling paintwork, and I use a perhaps lesser-known, but simple technique that gives a realistic appearance to any kind of derelict wooden surface. I used a resin moulding of wooden planks for an example to demonstrate this method, but it works equally well with plastic or real wood. This particular item is part of an industrial building set in the background of a small-scale feature. As usual the work is presented as a step-by-step guide so you can clearly see the process. I've included some photos of other miniature buildings and painted signs I've treated using the same methods highlighted here. Photo 1. I made this façade in 1:48 scale years  ago, when I first tested this method not only on the 'wooden' surfaces, but also with the painted-on café sign on the cement rendered wall. Photo 2. Old wooden planked doors like these are perfect reference subjects when trying out this technique in miniature. Photo 3. The work begins by choosing the right colours to simulate shades of bleached and worn wood as the general 'basic' tones. In reality this is not 'a shade', but several colours mixed together thus revealing plenty of variation. To imitate this aspect I used Humbrol matt enamels: Camouflage Grey 28, Light Grey 64, Chocolate 98, US Light Earth 119 and Light Grey 147.

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Scale Modelling Step By Step Advanced

Has it really been a whole year since we published our first Scale Modelling - Step-by-Step? The magazine was hugely successful and received warmly by beginners and those returning to the hobby after a long break, but even old hands found something to inspire them... or valued the reminder of basic skills often forgotten. This year we took the decision to cater for more experienced modellers who wish to up their game' in terms of using after-market products and more advanced techniques. Scenic modelling is something we can all appreciate when studying a well-produced diorama or vignette, and the genre is explored here in terms of methods, scratch-building, weathering and how to portray natural and man-made environments in a convincing manner. Nothing enlivens a good model like a well-executed base and surrounding scenery. Many modellers will acknowledge the fact that our hobby has been invigorated massively by the advent of photo-etched metal and resin detail parts, mixed media kits and other forms of after-market products.

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How To Build Tamiya's Aircraft

When I started building models as a child, the choice of kits available to me and my far from large pocket-money budget, were from Airfix, Matchbox and Revell. I remember clearly seeing these appear in my local post office and that rush of excitement when the time came to build another little masterpiece. Though these kits were great at the time, the arrival of a monthly magazine (Airfix), ushered in hitherto unknown ranges, Monogram, Heller and ultimately, Tamiya. It would be a while though before I would be able to enjoy any of these kits -especially Tamiya's excellent aircraft - but once I did, I knew I would be hooked for life. My first experience of a Tamiya aircraft kit was their original Harrier Jump Jet. I'd always been a fan of this aircraft - indeed, I still am! - so when the chance and the money became available to buy this kit, it was an opportunity not to be missed. When I had it in my hands and opened that box for the first time, I simply couldn't believe my eyes. Up until that point I'd only ever built small 1:72 aircraft kits, so this was a real step up. It was bigger of course, but the detail seemed extraordinary and there was an engine in there! I'd never seen an engine in a kit, let alone a jet! What a joy! Everything just seemed so exotic, with instructions in Japanese; little cartoon characters telling you how to build the kit; parts in their own little bags...

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Model Engineer 11/2013

Gerard Dean writes: It seemed like a good idea at the time - combine my new found Solidworks 3D cad design skills with a passion for model building to make the iconic slab sided German Tiger Tank. What could be easier than spending a few evenings on the PC, emailing the DXF files of to my friendly laser cutter and awaiting delivery of a flat pack Tiger. The idea was to click the flat pack parts together, touch them with a mig welder and prepare for paint - it was be done by Christmas. That was 2003 and I doubt that Santa Clause will see it fully finished when he pops down the chimney come Christmas 2013. Tiger 141 finally rolled down my driveway under electrical power in 2009. Aside from the clanking tracks that took a year to machine, the sound emanating from her was truly underwhelming. A sound generator was considered for a few seconds, until I pulled out a 25cc OHC four cylinder motor built many years before and left to gather dust.

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