FineScale Modeler 07 2006

Some modelers love tank tracks, others hate them, but most recognize them for what they are - the tedious part of modeling tracked vehicles. Either way, they're a necessity, and mastering them can sometimes be a lesson in frustration. Back in the "old days" of armor modeling we had two choices - rubber-band or vinyl tracks. Rubber-band tracks are just that, large rubber bands designed to be stretched over the road wheels and drive sprockets. These were especially popular and necessary with motorized kits but lacked detail and accuracy. Vinyl tracks, although an improvement over rubber-band tracks, still lacked the detail modelers sought, even as the quality of kits improved. Today, armor modelers have a wide variety of choices for their tracked vehicles. Many companies have retained their vinyl tracks, while others have opted to use link-and-length or individual links. Aftermarket companies like Friulmodel, Modelkasten, and Karaya produce detailed, workable track sets to give modelers the ultimate detail, and companies like Dragon are offering highly detailed functional tracks in their kits. I hope to accomplish a basic understanding of how to work with these various types of tracks.

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Military in Scale 09 2002

The tools of the trade. All the items that you see in this shot can be used in any modelling project, not just one of a mixed media nature. Of interest is the range of different adhesives to assemble the models, Mr Surfacer to add the weld beads, the knife to remove the small parts and the pliers to bend and position the photo etched parts. Missing from this shot, but no less important, are sanding sticks and wet and dry to clean up the various parts, as well as a razor saw that was used to remove the larger moulding plugs. The conning tower is moulded in one with the hull and is detailed on its upper surface with a large etched brass plate. Care needs to be exercised to ensure that the holes in the plate line up with depressions in the upper surface of the tower. Though the part fitted perfectly on the waterline kit, it was slightly off on the full hulled version -probably due to shrinkage on one or other part. Note the open hatch that will be detailed later on with a vac-formed Perspex dome. Etched hatches adorn the rear of the hull. Along with the removal of the large moulding plug from the underside of the hull, you will also need to remove webs of resin from around the mounting for the spinner. This took time and care because there was also evidence of stray resin in this area that needed removing with a file and some wet n dry. You will also need to pay attention when adding the winglets and the conical housing for the spinner - the former when fixing them straight and level, the latter when mounting it so that the spinner is central within the confines of the guard.

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